Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Hello Portland!


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Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer.

We have been totally delinquent on the blog. Once we got to Portland we just kinda quit. I guess you could say it’s been, “Hello Portland” in person.

We totally exhausted ourselves hanging out with friends, drinking lots of beer, whiskey, wine and Stumptown. But now we’re in the Bay area on the search for the perfect apartment so you can come visit us.

In these pictures you’ll find lots of things from the B & B we stayed at in Banff (you have to stay here if you go.) to the “Cracked Pots” festival at Edgefield, McMenamins.

More soon. We have to find a place to live just now. Enjoy.

Poor kitties!


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Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer.

Cirrus and DJ Scratch had to endure the terror that is my brother for four weeks. Needless to say, they were happy to see us. Not so happy, though, when we dropped them off at the kennel. They're doing better now, but looking forward to having a place to call home.

A Boutique Inn - Banff B & B


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Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer.

This is where we escaped the mosquitoes in Banff. It was really nice. You really must stay here, it was great.

Our Camping Demons


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Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer.

There are four of them on my leg. Can you find them all?

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

The Icefields Parkway


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Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer.

It's pretty much impossible to overstate how amazingly beautiful the drive is through the Canadian Rockies from Jasper National Park to Banff National park. This 180 mile journey is awe inspiring and quite literally to much for words or pictures. Basically you start out in Jasper on a three hour drive and end up in Banff eight to nine hours later. In between you see some one-of-a-kind landscape including a natural river (read no dams so it gets huge in the spring and dwindles down to a very small roar in the late summer), lakes that have some of the blue-est water you've ever seen, countless mountains jutting up all around you, wildlife, massive waterfalls falling thousands of feet, glaciers including one of the largest in North America (it is the beginning of the Columbia river), and much more than I can describe.

We took some pictures. Click here to see them all and enjoy the ride. We did.








Mountain Color


Mountain Color
Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer.

The mountain flowers we've come across on our hikes in both Banff and Jasper have been amazing. They're delicate and full of color. Every time we see them on the trail I can't help but pull out the camera and take a picture. It slows down the walk and that's perfect. They're one of the many, many, many reasons we're hiking through this wondrous land.





Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Bears to Glaciers, we've seen it all


A Real, Live Bear!!!
Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer

So, as you can see, Caspian found his blog voice again. This is good for you because he's a more practiced writer than I, however, this means he's hogging the computer while I have to write postcards, by hand and then send them without addresses.

Anyway, we have been in Banff for a couple of days camping. The mosquitoes again chased us out of camp but to spite them, we got a room at a B & B. I don't even remember what it's called, but it's super nice, cheap and we can take showers without flip flops and mosquitoes. It's so nice, in fact that we're staying an extra day. If not for this, we'd probably never camp again, which is bad for us because we like camping (it's cheap) and we're still about 1000 miles or more from home (exact location, TBA).

I can't describe to you how amazingly beautiful it is here. We have seen so much wildlife including elk, coyotes, pika, big horn sheep, and yes, even a bear. Proof is in the picture - that I took.

We've been on two amazing hikes, a very hilly bike ride (we kicked ass, but no, I don't think we're ready for the Crater Lake challenge. Sorry guys.) and swam in the most breathtakingly beautiful lakes. And yes, even guzzled a pitcher of microbrew from a rooftop bar.

Click the picture to link to our other album (more pictures of the drive through the Rockies and of Banff soon). And by the way, you HAVE to come here.

Stats say "20 views in two days"



Seriously Caspian, we sleep together, you need to step away from the computer...

Sunday, July 15, 2007

Virtual Postcard





Dear Friends and Family:

Today I wrote you postcards from Jasper, Canadian Rockies. They basically said, “We’re having a great time. The Rockies are amazing. Hope you’re keeping up with us on the blog.”

Well, I hope you’re keeping up with us on the blog because, in my sleep deprived, (the sun doesn’t set till 10 so it stays light until well past 11pm! And the sun comes up at 5:30am!), pre-food state, I put stamps on the postcards, put them in the mail box and immediately realized that I had not yet addressed them.

So you’ll never see them.

Here's your virtual postcard instead:

We're having a great time! Wish You Were Here!

Love from the Canadian Rockies.

XOXO,

Michelle & Caspian


It Gets Better


The Beach
Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer.

So we left the Hotel in Winnipeg and decided to take a slight detour of about 400 miles north. We read about Prince Albert Provincial Park in our copy of the travel guide Fromers Canada and according to the reviewer this park was the “crown jewel” in the Canadian pantheon of parks. Plus we’d never been that far north in our lives and we thought try to get a glimpse of the wildlife the park offered (moose, bears, elk, etc.). We gassed up the trusty Subaru to the tune of about $48 (yeah, I said $48 dollars and that’s for about 11.5 gallons of petrol. This was a normal occurrence on the trip. If you think $3.15 a gallon is expensive, fill up your vehicle in Canada for a couple weeks and then you’ll start to long for the $3 a gallon) and headed north through the plains of Canada…the flat plains of Canada. This area is where 55% of Canadian grain is grown and it is as flat as the kitchen floor. The beautiful thing about it is the fields are pure yellow, not gold, not the color of wheat, but yellow. Yellow canola flowers fill the horizon for as far as the eye can see and that view doesn’t stop for about 700 miles.

So we fired up the ipod and let the music play. It was a long road trip but finally we began to see trees which meant we were getting close. Soon we pulled up to the park and I opened up the window to pay the entry fee. Immediately I was assaulted by a horde of bugs. Black flies, mosquitoes, and the like swarming my window. This is called foreshadowing. I should have listened.

We got to the campsite, began to set it up, and noticed more mosquitoes than we’ve ever seen in our lives. Hastily we put up our tent and lit some citronella candles. Then we lit some more candles. And then some more. It was late by this time (9:45pm), but the sun doesn’t fully go down until 11pm so we had a bit of sun left. I headed off to the bathroom to take off my contacts while Michelle started to make dinner. In light of the bug problem we opted for the quickness of sandwich preparation of burritos. About ten minutes later I came back from the bathroom to find Michelle throwing all of the food fixings in the tent and emphatically stating that she couldn’t take it anymore. The mosquitoes had driven her out of our campsite, but not without her preparing a couple sandwiches for us. These would be the last meals that we made in our campsite at Prince Albert Provincial Park.

We wolfed down our sandwiches and went for a walk. We found that if we moved (read walked, ran, or drove) that the bugs would leave us alone. We walked into the small town about 2 miles away and back. Then we quickly jumped into our tent and went to sleep at around 12:30am.

The next morning we decided to take a bike ride. The park has a paved road in it that is rarely used by motorist. It’s a perfect place to go for a road bike ride. The road is full of rolling hills and forest on either side. As you follow the road you pass many lakes. Unfortunately for us, as you follow the road a horde of black flies follows you. The fast you go the faster they go. It’s unbelievable, but Michelle and I got it down to a science, if you are riding 17mph or slower, they are going to be on your ass, buzzing around you. But once you hit 18mph and above those bitches can’t keep you. We went as fast as we could on this 30 mile ride and tried to leave the bugs in our wake. It worked sort of. As we road we would periodically get pelted. Hitting a black fly at 25 mph can sting a little. The ride was beautiful, but the bugs were relentless. We finished the ride and headed back to camp to get some food. That didn’t last long.

“Michelle, I can’t eat here. The mosquitoes think that I’m a big piece of corn-on-the-cob.”

“I read that there’s a beautiful place for wildlife viewing about 20 miles to the north. Do you want to make lunch there?”

I had already started the car. And we were off. About 45 minutes later we arrived at the end of a dirt road. We were in the middle of the forest, a grass field sat before us. As soon as we stopped the car we started hearing a little pounding noises. It sounded like it was raining except the sun made us reach for our sun glasses. And then we noticed it. The bugs were hammering themselves into the car. They wanted us…or maybe the car. For a second we considered making lunch there. For a second. I started up the car now completely miserable and we headed back to town.

Michelle could tell that I was really, really not happy. And then she had an amazing idea.

“Let’s go to the beach on the lake in the middle of the village. We should just stop trying to see nature.”

She was right. Fuck nature and fuck this place. If something didn’t change soon I was going to be just the cob, no corn, and I was going to go crazy. These bugs where literally eating me alive. And worse than that, they were ruining my vacation. I wanted to kill them all and then leave.

We headed to the beach and an amazing thing happened when we go there. No bugs. None! Zero!

We stayed there.

We soaked up the sun. Ate dinner at a local restaurant. Drank some beers. Checked our email. Played some games and stayed the hell away from our campsite, nature, any place where those bastards with syringes as mouths were hanging out. It was awesome and we had a great time. We also got everything in our car ready so that when the morning came we get the hell out of there as fast as possible.

That night we rolled into our campsite around midnight, set our alarm for 6 in the morning, and jumped into our tent as quickly as possible. We didn’t want the tent doors open for a second longer. We were the only ones getting into that shelter. The next morning, we got up and left, quickly. Next stop, the Canadian Rocky Mountains.




Wednesday, July 11, 2007

No Mosquitoes Please


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Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer.

I hate mosquitoes. Loath them. Abhor the very fact that they were created. And yet, they love me. LOVE ME. This is a bad relationship. No matter how often I kill them. Yes KILL them, they never stop coming back. I am a culinary delight for them and for some reason they haven’t got the taste for Michelle. So when we set up camp, no matter how late, in some mosquito laden site the flapping of little wings start to buzz around me. I run for the tent, but it is always too late. Those suckers have already sunk there teeth into me. So it was when we pitched our tent late one night at Algonquin Provincial Park in Canada. Beautiful place. Wonderful site. Millions of mosquitoes and a tasty Caspian. We left early in the morning, but I took a few itchy souvenirs with me. Luckily the next place we stayed, Agawa Camp Ground had everything Algonquin had and less (no mosquitoes). Perfect. We’ll see what happens the rest of the trip.

The Sights inside the Car


Road Food
Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer.

Road food is an essential part of every trip. And although we’ve purchased our share of local fruit, organic juice, water, fresh bread, cheese, beer, and the such, sometimes you’ve just got do like the locals…and eat a whole bevy of fried goodness. Picture this, Michelle in the passenger seat, me in the driver seat, Canada flying past our windows and our mouths full of fries. Lovely, tasty, salty fries. Beautiful isn’t it!

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

It's F#$%^&* Beautiful Here!!!!


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Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer.

Monday, July 09, 2007

Mmm, just finished a beer in nowhere, Ontario. We haven’t sat down to a beer since Montreal. I guess the Terminator we had at the campground two days ago would count, but it was past it’s prime, and there’s just something inauthentic about beer in a plastic cup. Could I be addicted to beer? Or is it the caffeine withdrawal I’m going through? You just can’t get a good cup of coffee in Canada so I decided to do without it all together. No sense in torturing myself with crappy coffee just to avoid a headache. I’d rather have the headache. Besides, beer helps. And, for that matter, it’s been tough to get a good beer in New York, believe it or not, so of course every microbrewery from here to Portland is calling our name.

Blog? Oh, Ok. The Subie’s driving like a champ (knock on wood). Our bikes are covered in bugs and it seems our tent is never going to have a chance to dry out. It’s been one week, 1,842 miles since Brooklyn and a whole lot of fun already. Today, we’ve been experiencing THE MOST BEAUTIFUL PLACE IN THE WORLD.

I’m not kidding. It’s fucking beautiful here driving the Canadian border of the great lakes. Lake Heron, Lake Superior. Words really can not describe, but I’ll try.

A dense, lush diverse forest pervades the landscape all the way up to the shore of the lake. You would swear from several points that you were at the ocean. You can’t see the other side; waves break at the shore, ever changing with tide. But it’s fresh water! It boggles the mind. We stopped at a beach – it was along the road; we used the compost “toilette” and turned the corner to take a picture. A near vacant sandy beach was soon under our feet with the most amazing view – reminiscent of the San Juans, only there was sand beneath my feet! I couldn’t resist plopping myself down and imagining I was in Hawaii. If it weren’t for the sub-alpine winters, I’m sure that this would be a major tourist destination.

As we continued our drive toward Thunder Bay, our last stop in the eastern time zone, hundreds of gorgeous, gorgeous lakes jumped out of the landscape. It was often hard to keep our eyes on the road.

And many a nod and wave was exchanged between us, with our Treks on top of the Subie and the numerous cyclists braving the extensive elevation climb for the glorious journey, views and camping along Canada’s transcontinental highway 17. The Crater Lake Century is just a warm up, Evan, Suzy, and Becky, for this, your next challenge - we’ll drive the support van.

Bonjour Montreal!


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Originally uploaded by Polish Carpetlayer.

“Bonjour!” Does anyone speak English? So let me get this straight, your queen presides from Brittan and you speak French even though the rest of your country speaks English? This is the silliest city I have ever been to. But don’t tell anyone from Montreal I said that, because if I EVER have the opportunity to live in Montreal, I would not hesitate to take it.

When we arrived our first impression was of the HI hostel - great if you’re young and single and used to living in a dorm. Once you pay for two, however, you’re getting close to the cost of a motel, where you have your own room, shower, and don’t have to sleep in a bunk bed. It was fine for the night. After getting settled in and deciding on a parking garage for the evening, we took the “concierge’s” recommendation and found this hip, energetic French restaurant where we could bring in our own bottle of ‘04 Languedoc. We paired it with seared tuna with a basil sauce and (don’t tell my family) duck “a la frambois” (raspberry sauce). It was wonderful and relaxing.

The next day we spent the morning finding a place to stay for the night. I was directed by a B & B who had no vacancy to www.bonjourquebec.com. I highly recommend this to anyone planning to travel in Quebec and I wish I knew about it before. Here we found a room at (speaking of dorms) the University UQAM for less than we were paying at the hostel. We had our own room in a quad where we shared a kitchen and two bathrooms with four other private rooms. But we did not use the kitchen, and neither did our one other quad mate. And to top it off, it was across the street from the Jazz festival!

The Jazz festival was so fabulous! But I’ll get to that later, or let Cas blog about it. (Cas is currently on a writing hiatus) First, after finding our lodging, we took the bikes for a tour of Montreal. Portland’s bike hospitality has nothing on Montreal. Not only did we have our own road, divided from the main road by a strip of concrete, but we had our own stop light!!! With cute little bike shaped lights! Ok, so that was for five routes they have mapped throughout the city, but there are bikes EVERYWHERE. Riding our bikes through downtown felt safe, even without bike lanes.

On our ride, we rode the set bike route through the bustling downtown water front through the more grungy and industrial neighborhoods of Montreal, which was cool to see. We then followed another road that took us deep into the city, up the hill, around a great little park, by several bike shops and a bike shop/bike travel agency!/cafĂ© where we had lunch. And just in time, ducked under it’s awning to wait out a flash downpour.

Despite the car theft of the two American women staying in our hostel that occurred while ours was parked under the Days Inn for $20 a day (thank God for our decision), Montreal is a wonderful, beautiful city that we felt safe and at home in.

Please take the time to click on the picture to see our album from Montreal.  And please comment! (It’s our only form of communication at this time!)

Friday, July 06, 2007

"Actually, we're out of lobster."



We finally made it to Portland - Maine!!!

The next stop on our road trip was Portland, Maine. Of course we had to do it, and it turns out that we're not alone; the front desk of the cute little Inn we stayed at mentioned that they frequently have visitors from Portland, Oregon.

It was the four the of July, honestly, the holiday I dislike the most. (I sound like the Grinch, but it's the noise and the trash and the polluted air that I dislike the least.) But quaint little Portland was alive with excitement of a holiday, waving their sparklers in anticipation for the fireworks show.

Hearing that Portland had an abundance of microbrews, we stopped in at one for brew and a snack. We gnoshed on muscles and bread and sipped on their red while we contemplated whether or not to take part in the patriotic festivities and how we would fit in a lobster dinner.

We headed toward the bay to check out the excitement - over looking Casco Bay, on a large patch of grass sat hundreds of Portlanders. The view reminded us of the San Juans in Washington. Above, a gray sky threatened of rain.

After hanging out for a bit and still an hour till blast off, we decided to find lobster, then return to the show if after we felt so inclined. After ordering another local pint we asked of the Market price today for lobster (they had about four different lobster items on their menu, as is typical of tourist, Maine.)

It began to rain.

Outside the window, soaked firework watchers dashed for cover. We finished the evening , our pints, salad and clam chowder and headed back to the Inn.

Check out the rest of the pictures here.


Tuesday, July 03, 2007

"Officially Homeless..."


Caspian hates it when I say that. Of course, it's not "really" true, our hearts have found "home" in Portland, Brooklyn, and in all of our friends and family -left and right coast. But my car key is alone on the loop and I have no return address on my letters - other than: General Delivery, Oakland, CA. I can't even remember the zip code, so some good that's doing us.

Anyhow, our friends outside of Boston we're nice enough to pull out their hide-away for us for a couple of nights while we recover from the moving experience we had packing up and handing over our things to some guy named "Wolfe" (We hope to see them on the other side) and mapping out the next three to four weeks. We plan.... well, I'm not going to tell you what's next, you'll just have to keep reading.

By the way, today we picked up a new point and shoot digital camera (after it was confirmed lost yesterday, not finding it in the move.) So we'll be posting photos more regularly throughout the trip.

Love to you all.

Michelle